Troubleshooting & Support

First: Secure Your Dog

Before troubleshooting, make sure your dog is safe. Put them on a leash or bring them inside until you've identified the issue.

Common Causes (Most Likely First)

1. Collar fit is too loose. The contact points must touch your dog's skin. The collar should fit snug enough that it makes contact no matter where it sits on the neck. Long fur or a loose strap are the most common culprits. This is the #1 cause of run-throughs.
2. Battery is dead or low. If the collar didn't beep at all, check if it needs charging (EcoLite and LINK receivers) or a new battery (UltraMax).
3. Correction level is too low. High-drive dogs chasing prey may override a low correction. The level may need adjustment.
4. The half-second delay. Fast dogs can sprint through before the correction activates. We can remove this delay.
5. Wire break. If the transmitter is beeping, the boundary signal may be down. See wire break troubleshooting.
6. Training has faded. Dogs occasionally test boundaries, especially after long periods away from home. A refresher may be needed.

Quick Diagnostic Steps

If Everything Checks Out

If the collar is working, the fit is good, and the transmitter isn't beeping—your dog may have learned they can push through at high speed. This requires a settings adjustment (removing the delay and/or increasing correction) plus refresher training.

Symptoms

• Collar doesn't beep when approaching boundary
• Collar doesn't correct even when beeping
• Solid red light on the charger after the diagnostic test has finished
• Collar is flashing white constantly (not just at boundary)

Troubleshooting Steps

1. Check the battery/charge. For rechargeable collars, charge for at least 3 hours even if it appears charged. For collars that have been left dead for more than 4 months, they may require several charge cycles to revive the battery. For battery collars, try a fresh battery.
2. Check the contact points. The metal prongs should be clean and free of debris. Wipe them with a damp cloth.
3. Test at the boundary. Walk the collar (not on the dog) toward the flags. Listen for the beep. Make sure you hold it down at dog height. If it beeps, the collar is receiving signal.
4. Check the transmitter. Is there a number showing on screen? Is it beeping? If the transmitter has an issue, the collar won't work even if it's fine.

Signs the Collar Needs Replacement

• Won't hold a charge (rechargeable) or drains batteries in days
• Physical damage (cracked case, corroded contacts)
• Beeps randomly or constantly even away from boundary
• Test light doesn't illuminate even after charging

What the Beeping Means

Your transmitter sends a signal through the buried wire loop. When the loop is complete, everything works. When something goes wrong, the transmitter beeps to alert you. The beep pattern tells you what happened:

Quick Checks Before Calling

1. Check the wire connections at the transmitter. Are the wires still connected to the terminals? Sometimes they work loose.
2. Check for obvious damage. Did you recently have yard work, aeration, edging, or digging? Look for disturbed ground along the boundary.
3. Check after storms. Lightning and power surges can damage wire. Also check that the transmitter itself wasn't damaged.

Common Causes of Wire Breaks

• Lawn aeration — The #1 cause. Aerator spikes cut right through the wire.
• Edging/trimming — String trimmers and edgers near the boundary line.
• Digging — Gardening, fence post installation, tree planting, animals digging.
• Utility installations — New gas lines, fibre optic, sprinkler systems, or other underground work.
• Lightning/surges — Can damage wire at connection points.
• Old splice failure — Previous repairs failing over time.
• Ground shifting — Freeze/thaw cycles, soil settling. (This is mainly an issue with thin wire used in DIY kits—professionally installed wire is thick enough to withstand frost heave.)

Signs of a Wire Break

• Transmitter is beeping (most common sign)
• Collar doesn't beep anywhere along the boundary
• System stopped working after aeration, digging, or edging
• Recent storm with lightning nearby

If You Know Where the Damage Is

Sometimes you can see the break—a cut wire exposed by edging, or obvious damage from digging. If you're comfortable with basic repairs:

1. Expose both ends of the broken wire
2. Strip about 1 inch of insulation from each end
3. Twist the wires together tightly. If the break has a gap, you may need a short piece (6–12 inches) of bridging wire to span the distance.
4. Use a waterproof wire connector—gel-filled, designed for outdoor underground wire connections
5. Bury the repair and check if transmitter stops beeping

If You Can't Find the Break

Most wire breaks are invisible—underground with no visible damage at the surface. That's where we come in.

We use specialized wire locating equipment to:

• Trace the entire boundary wire path
• Pinpoint the exact break location
• Find multiple breaks if there are more than one

What to Tell Us When You Call

The Two-Finger Rule

The collar should be snug enough that you can fit two fingers between the strap and your dog's neck. The contact points must touch skin—not rest on fur.

Signs of Poor Fit

Dealing with Long or Thick Fur

Dogs with thick coats need extra attention. The contact points must reach skin to work. Options include:

• Trim the fur across a few inches along the base of the neck where the receiver rests, then a bit lower
• Use longer contact points — we have extended prongs for thick-coated breeds
• Check fit regularly — thick fur can shift the collar position

Cleaning the Contact Points

Dirt, skin oils, and debris can build up on the contact points and reduce effectiveness. Clean them weekly with a damp cloth. For stubborn buildup, use rubbing alcohol on a cotton pad.

If You See Sores or Redness

1. Stop using the collar immediately until the skin heals
2. Clean the area with mild soap and water
3. Check the fit — was it too tight? Left on too long?
4. Consider comfort pads — some collars have optional soft covers for sensitive dogs
5. Contact us if the issue persists — we can check settings and fit

The Simple Rule

Collar off = boundary doesn't apply. Your dog learns that wearing the collar means the boundary is active. When the collar is off, they can cross freely (with you, on leash).

The Exit Routine

1. Remove the collar before leaving the house or designated exit area
2. Attach a regular leash to your dog's everyday collar
3. Walk confidently across the boundary — don't hesitate or act nervous
4. When returning, bring your dog back inside before putting the fence collar back on

Establishing an Exit Spot

It helps to use the same location each time you leave. Common choices:

• The front door (if boundary is in backyard only)
• The garage (collar off in garage, walk out through driveway)
• A specific gate (always use the same one)

Common Questions

Won't my dog try to leave when the collar is off?

A well-trained dog respects the boundary even without the collar on. The training creates a habit. However, during the first few weeks after training, always use a leash when the collar is off.

What if someone else takes my dog out?

Make sure everyone in the household knows the routine: collar off, leash on, then cross the boundary. Post a reminder note near the door if needed.

Can my dog wear the collar in the car?

We recommend removing it. While the collar only activates near your boundary wire, if your driveway passes close to the boundary—or your activation distance is set high—the collar could activate while your dog is in the car. Better safe than sorry. Plus, removing the collar reinforces the "collar off = leaving the property" association.